The particulate matter does not provide a lot of hope for the condition of the clutches. Cleaning out the connectors at both ends of the harness has made an obvious difference to the shift quality, and the box is behaving much better on the 1-2 upshift. Once the oil becomes warm it flows more freely and can pass through the filter more easily. You do not want to overtighten any of the valve body bolts. Whilst you wait for the fluid to drain it might be a good idea to organise your work area.
Compare measurement and temperature with table below: Oil temp deg C 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 Min level mm 3 5 8 11 13 14 16 17 19 21 22 24 26 29 31 Max level mm 15 17 20 22 25 26 27 28 29 32 34 36 38 41 43 Once filled and measured as correct, replace the dipstick and cap. Time consuming, but worth it. The valve body can now be removed from the transmission. Shove a big rag in there to prevent the innards spilling onto your floor in many pieces. Our managers proceed your order the same day. As an aside I've just noticed the last logs I managed to record with the Nanocom a couple of years ago report values truncated to the nearest whole digit.
Push the socket inside the transmission direction of red arrow using your fingers. Bellhousing With Intermediate Plate and Pump 2. So I knew it was getting bad The Landie was off the road, so I decided to finish the Landie before the van broke. Once the car is in the air that should give you access to the bottom of the transmission. Pictured is the Land Rover one, complete with optional extra leaves. The sandpaper drill thingie is used to knock down any burrs left from the steel seals here: New teflon seals. In my case I had to remove the 30mm nut on the back of the output flange.
The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. Secondly, we have discussed this conversion at length, but we are lacking a central resource of concrete information that anybody can use as a guide. Break out the multimeter and check the resistance across the solenoids and the speed sensor. Double check your work as you go. The top one in this photo can be hand tightened, the bottom one sits loosely as there is no thread to screw it into at this time. With the valve body off it can be seen that the internal part of the selector lever correct name, someone? Reassembly is covered in the A-clutch repair.
A replacement is definately called for. The correct procedure would be to stop the engine for at least 90 seconds, do the test without selecting again D or R, this means without re-pressurizing the gearbox for no longer than a minute, and if the procedure must be repeated, stop again for at least 90 seconds and repeat. Transmission Case With Selector and Park 3. With all the flow restrictors removed, a pesky snap ring now stands in the way of further disassembly, but two screwdrivers carefully applied got it out. Repeat the procedure for the lower front section of the valve body.
It uses 4 solenoids and has a 7 pin plug. Put the 30mm nut onto the socket and do it up tight. Again be careful, more tiny things lurk within. Reassembly is covered in the A- clutch repair. There will be no gap between the pump and tranny case when seated. Is to remove the large internal circlip that retains the centre support, then pack the case with newspaper to stop it all from tumbling out of the case, then give the case a good hard tap down on some wood blocks directly downwards front first, or at a slight angle.
Refit the pan to the transmission. A close up of the offending check ball shows it to be well worn and undersized. You can now remove the bolts you temporarily replaced to hold the lower front section of the valve body in place. Measure the endfloat of the input shaft and shim the thrust bearing accordingly. The only problem I faced was not having the correct gear to reassemble the clutch hubs after installing the new seals. If you refer back to my first post in this thread, you'll see I left off with the problem of how to remove the flow restrictor washers from the passages between the valve body and the main part of the gearbox.
Note to self: Never buy a D2 that has been used to tow horse floats - even if the Auto has been replaced. Lower rear with front and parts removed. The vehicle must be without load and on even ground. Ensure they are free of any debris. Legg, Peugeot 505 Owners Workshop Manual, Haynes Publishing Group, 1989, , p. Move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
The Jag output yoke allows the P6 driveshaft to be reinserted without modification, and member eightofthem has found that the Jag shift cable is the one that works best, allowing the original Rover selector to be retained, also without modification, and apparently allowing selection of all the lower gears i. If necessary, use eightofthem's technique of tapping the box downwards onto a lump of wood, but be careful! Transmission Case With Shift Selection 3. . Another issue is the governor valve sticking, which can be caused by contamination. This should be done sooner rather later to reduce the possibility of damage to the autobox, by the clutches 'slipping' during this slow engagement.
Of course, we also have to fit the tail housing, output yoke, bellhousing, flex plate, spacers and torque converter, but I'll cover that in a separate post as I still have some of these parts away being refurbished. When you remove the filter you can dump it in the bin. Here's the pack of disks and plates - there's a black wavy disk on the top and bottom of the pack that you re- use. Mounting and Assembly of 4th Gear Complete 3. Don't hold your breath for my next update to this thread, fellows. Larger migrations may render components lost, and or jam the inner valves and springs.